Ricotta pudding cake

Ricotta might not be the first thing that comes to mind when discussing the food of Veneto. And yet, it has been part of the culinary heritage of the region for decades, featuring in all sorts of dishes, from gnocchi to cakes.

The word ricotta literally means 're-cooked' and is produced by re-boiling the whey leftover from the cheese-making process. It can be made using most kinds of whey – cow, sheep, goat and buffalo are all found in Italy.

Venetians call ricotta puina. Flipping through old recipe books written in dialect, I stumbled upon a few recipes for torta de puina – a cake made with little more than flour, eggs and ricotta. The idea intrigued me and triggered many trials (and many errors). I settled on a cake in which ricotta and eggs are the main ingredients, and give way to a temptingly tender number that sits somewhere between a crustless cheesecake and a flan. Orange blossom water is my elected aromatic element – in small amounts, it imparts the most pleasant floweriness.

I love this cake for many reasons: for its simplicity, mostly, but also for its ability to welcome a few variations. Grappa-soaked raisins, candied citrus peel or roughly chopped dark chocolate all make nice additions. As for toppings, a dollop of orange-blossom whipped cream or a berry coulis are both fabulous ideas (as are flowers!)