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This inventive mozzarella starter from Pino Cuttaia is indeed as light as a cloud. The chef conceals a mozzarella foam in milk skin and serves the dish with a vibrant plum tomato juice.
For the milk skin, wrap a small saucepan with cling film. Pour the milk in a larger saucepan and warm over a low heat without bringing it to the boil
2l milk
2
After 10 minutes, when a thin layer has formed on the surface, dunk the small saucepan into the warm milk so that the layer of milk will stick on it. Remove it gently and place on the table, then cover with cling film
3
Repeat several times (you might throw the first 2–3 layers away because they won't be thick enough)
4
For the mozzarella foam, chop the mozzarella and heat the milk. Transfer to a blender and blitz until smooth
Place in the fridge for 12 hours, then pass through a sieve and mix with the cream. Season with salt and pour into a siphon charged with 2 N2O gas charges
220g of cream
6
For the plum tomato juice, preheat a water bath to 80°C
7
Place the plum tomatoes in a vacuum bag with the garlic cloves, some basil leaves and a little oil. Seal and place in the water bath for 30 minutes
8
Open the bag, remove the garlic and pass the tomatoes through a sieve
9
For the panzanella, mix part of the juice with the soft inside of bread. Season with salt – you're aiming for a panzanella that can be shaped into a quenelle
10
To make ‘the cloud', place the milk skin on the table and squirt a shot of mozzarella foam in the centre. Wrap the foam in the milk skin, joining at the sides, then turn so the joins are underneath
11
Place a quenelle of panzanella in the centre of a soup plate and place the cloud of mozzarella on top to cover
12
Season with a drizzle of olive oil, garnish with sun-dried tomatoes and basil and pour the plum tomato juice onto the plate
As a die hard Sicilian through and through, Pino Cuttaia’s cooking is a celebration of everything good about the island’s food. His personal interpretation of the region’s famous dishes has made his restaurant La Madia a bastion of Sicilian cuisine.