The complete foodie guide to Sardinia

Sardinia has a special affinity with cheeses, perhaps in part due to its close proximity with the French-governed island of Corsica to the north. The island produces lots of sheep’s cheeses, with fresh whey made into ricotta, whilst curds are moulded into pecorino. Most famous of all is Casu Marzu – a Sardinian pecorino that contains live maggots. Though the legal status of the cheese is questionable (you won’t find it on sale in shops anywhere in Sardinia or the world), it’s still considered a great delicacy by the locals.

Great seafood is all about freshness, and Sardinia’s access to the bounty of the Mediterranean makes it a paradise for seafood lovers. Sardinian fishermen bring home lots of sardines, of course, as well as swordfish, tuna, lobster, clams, and a bounty of other fish and shellfish. Keep a special look out for sea urchins too – a Mediterranean delicacy with the strong saline flavour of the sea.

If seafood isn’t your thing, don’t fret – Sardinians love their meat too. There are more than four million sheep in Sardinia, so lamb and mutton are both prominent if you head a bit further inland, but goat is popular on the island too, as are pigs. Younger animals are often eaten in simple ways – grilled over open fires – whilst older animals end up as delicious charcuterie like proscuitto, pancetta and coppa.

This unique and unusual citrus fruit is native to Sardinia, and has a pleasant sour and bitter flavour not unlike a grapefruit, though it can often be larger with a much thicker, more wrinkled skin. It’s not always easy to find as it only grows in citrus groves around the town of Siniscola, where locals eat it with lashings of honey, or use it to make liqueur.

As it is in many cultures across the globe, suckling pig is a treasured delicacy in Sardinia, and locals prepare it in their own signature style. Myrtle and juniper are both plentiful on the island – you’ll find them frequently used in Sardinian dishes – and they give a beautiful smokey, menthol aroma to the suckling pig, which is completely wrapped in myrtle leaves before being slow-cooked over juniper wood until melting and tender.

It looks like giant couscous, but fregola is actually semolina pasta dough, hand-rolled into little balls and toasted in an oven to give a nice nutty flavour and chewy texture. Although it’s often used in traditional Italian pasta dishes, you’ll find it in a whole host of salads, soups and stews too. Seafood fregola with saffron is Sardinian through and through – a must-try if you’re on the island.

Also known as carta di musica – literally, music paper – pane carasau was originally found preserved among the remains of Sardinia’s ancient Nuragic civilisation, meaning it has been eaten on the island for at least 3,000 years. Baked durum wheat flatbread is separated into two sheets and baked again to create this thin, crispy delicacy. Sardinians eat pane carasau with almost anything, so you’ll find it a welcome presence at almost every meal you eat on the island. The most famous dish made from it, however, is pane frattau, which sees the bread topped with a tomato sauce and a poached egg.

Panadas are Sardinian pies, originating from the small town of Assemini, just outside Cagliari. These days the fillings can vary hugely – you’ll find vegetarian and cheese panadas are fairly common, as well as beef and pork – but the most traditional pies have a lamb filling inside, which is fried then baked inside the pastry. If you’re lucky, you might even find very traditional eel panadas around, although they’re the least common of the lot.

Although not typically associated with Italy, saffron is very popular in Sardinia thanks to the island’s Spanish and Arabian heritage. The luxurious, heady spice is used in a wide variety of dishes, but particularly in malloreddus, a small gnocchi – or gnocchetti – typical of Sardinia, made with durum wheat flour, water and a touch of ground saffron. It’s often served as malloreddus alla campidanese, where the little gnocchetti are covered in a delicious sausage and tomato ragù, and sprinkled liberally with pecorino cheese.

Even when you’ve eaten more than your share of incredible pasta, seafood and roasted meats, there’s always a bit of room for seadas. These gorgeous little dough parcels are deep-fried and drizzled with honey, and crispy pastry gives way to a soft filling of fresh pecorino. They’re often finished with a bittersweet grating of orange peel, too. Delicious.

These curious little tarts are traditionally associated with Easter, although you can find them year-round in Sardinia's bakeries today. Filled with ricotta, citrus peel and saffron, the filling is a soft, moist sponge bursting with flavour.